How to do Japan
A sarcastic Swedish man's way of survival in the big city
Landing in Tokyo
Tokyo has two airports, Narita & Haneda that both operate international flights. But the process will be the same:
- Get out of the flight where you filled out your immigration + customs papers provided by the flight attendants
- Clear immigration with flying colors
- Pick up your luggage
- Go through customs where you give the officer your customs paper. They often single you for inspection of your luggage. Don’t worry but think of this when you pack neatly or as an stressed teenager late for a class trip…
- Welcome to Japan
Travel into town
There are multiple options for how to get into town. The more people you travel with — the more sense a private taxi is.
But read about every possible option here
For you, that takes the subway or express trains
Everything in Japan is bought from ticket machine that will at first be a musically overwhelming experience. Try to buy the ticket and hold on to it because you need it when you reach your destination.
Be ready that it will take time to get to your destination. I would expect you to take the wrong train at least 1–3 times before reaching your destination.
Buying and surviving
In Japan cash is still king so never run out of money. So make sure to get some at home, at the airport or in any 7/11 store.
Getting around in Tokyo
Tokyo is big — like really big. As I grew up in a 130 000 people town a megacity as Tokyo is difficult to wrap your head around.
Tip of the day: Use Google maps because that is a life saver.
As you can imagine how great it would be to have one transit system, one card & unlimited rides. Unfortunately, that is not the case in Tokyo. Trains, subways, and buses are owned by multiple companies so sometimes you have to buy multiple tickets to get to a destination.
But there 3 ways you can travel around.
Suica & Pasmo
Are chargeable payment cards that work in the whole transit system in Tokyo. This even includes some taxi companies, vending machines, convenient stores, or many other restaurants.
You can purchase Pasmo card here and get it delivered to your home address. If not — you can get it directly at the airport or any train/subway ticket machines/offices.
Paper tickets for each travel
You can purchase tickets from machines or the ticket office. Don’t expect people to speak English so have a name of the place you want to go.
Here is a video of how to buy — easiest by far is to pay with cash.
Ticket rule #1 You need your ticket when you reach your destination so keep it!
JR Pass
For you that have invested in buying a JR pass (I will explain more further below on what that is) will have to go to the ticket booth next to the turnstile and be manually let you in and out of the train system. This is because JR pass is still a piece of paper.
General tips & tricks for transporting yourself in Tokyo
- In order to find the train/subway turnstile in a station (harder than you can think) just follow the main flow of stressed Japanese people and they will probably lead your right there.
- Don’t lose your ticket or card. If you do — play stupid tourist.
- In the train/subway refrain of making too much sounds or talk on the phone. As a thumb rule do the opposite of what People do in the New York transit system.
- During 07–09 AM and 5–8 PM the train/subway system will be crowded in that way you’ve seen on television. It’s certainly an experience and far more fun when you are at least two heads taller than everyone else.
- During weekdays 11:30–01AM in the night, Japanese workers that been out drinking (as part of their daily duty) are on their way home, Japanese called “Shuden” meaning the last train. Expect this train to be packed but now filled with very drunk Japanese people falling asleep left and right.
- If you travel during these times try to not to bring all your luggage because if looks could kill…..
- Normally the front cart in the train/subway is Female only. This during busy hours as explained above. The cart will have this sticker in almost every window/door, so you cannot miss it.
Getting around in Japan
JR Pass
Japan is very accessible country with train and if you will travel around in Japan, a JR pass will be your best friend. It is an all you can ride ticket with almost all type of transportation.
Prices ranges but if you travel outside of Tokyo, this quickly becomes a more affordable option.
Things to do around Tokyo!
As mentioned, Tokyo is a big city with a big list of things to do. Here comes some of the worthy mentions and must do’s.
Interesting spots in Tokyo
Asakusa Temple = really old and Japanesy temple that give you great photo ops.
Sky tree = A 634m building (for American — it’s really high) with incredible views and surrounded by a huge shopping centre. According to the Japanese, it’s the tallest building in the world but the construction of Burj Khalifa have seen to be forgotten.
Disney land & Disney Sea = Well, it’s Disney. At least Disney Sea has an alcohol license and serves quite great whiskey drinks.
Tokyo Tower = The Japanese equivalent to the Eiffel tower and it’s located right next to the restaurant where I asked Maho to marry me.
Shibuya crossing = That crazy crossing that has more people changing streets in 1 minute than packed medium sized football (*America — Soccer) arena in Sweden.
Shinjuku Park = A centrally located Japanese park that will have great Instagram opportunities and drinking tea.
Akihabara = A crazy place to find every type of electronics imaginable and go down nerd lane.
Golden street = A former black market, bar & prostitution area that transitioned into a close quarter zone with over 200 restaurants often not bigger than for 8 guests at a time. Here you can find smokey whiskey to fantastic Teriyaki.
Try not to be a tourist and be too afraid to sit down and eat at one of these restaurants. Often tourist just end up taking photos and then walk off.
Or Omoide Yokocho, also in Shinjyuku is also worth visiting if you are there.
Samurai museum = Why would you not? I know that you want to check it out.
You can find much more in travel blogs, Trip advisor and Google.
Places for a short trip outside hectic Tokyo
Kamakura & Enoshima traveling with Enoden (Train)= A trip filled with many temples, going with local old trains and end it on an island with a great view point.
Nikko = waterfalls, mountains, big temples, and shrines.
Hakone= Hot spring spots and a great place for staying in a traditional Ryokan.
What to eat
Tokyo has everything, so take the opportunity of being in the city with most Michelin stars in the world to try Japanese cuisine as it’s supposed to be served.
Eat Sushi — Not California roll
You can enjoy Japanese Sushi in multiple ways and I suggest you try each one of them. Forget about the California roll because that is an American invention that most Japanese never heard of.
- Conveyor belt Sushi
You can both order from a menu and take food from the conveyor belt that is next to your table. You can order via a tablet and the price is calculated from how many of what type of plates you took from the conveyor belt.
A great chain restaurant, offers high quality fish is Choushimaru.
2. Gourmé Sushi
There are an abundance of fine dining sushi restaurants that come at the price of 100 USD+ per person. Often you sit and watch the chef prepare your meal in front of you. I recommend doing this because you will probably not have the opportunity again.
Find a great one here and book in advance
Eat meat better than Kobe beef
Many of you have probably heard about Kobe beef as the world’s best beef and that it’s really expensive. Both are true in some sense, but the Japanese often looks at Kobe as a marketing success — not the true champion of Japanese Beef.
Mildly said meat in Japan is something else and you can find the best experience in a Yakiniku restaurant.
Yakiniku
In Sweden, Yakiniku is a dish with thinly sliced beef and very sweet Yakiniku sauce together with rice. In japan, that is Gyudon and Yakiniku actually means “baking meat”. These are a special type of restaurants. Go here and choose from assortments of different meats that you or a waiter will “bake” in front of you.
Great places to visit: Jojoen, Nikuazabu, Kokokara or Futago.
Jojoen is a must do, because every Japanese dreams to go there.
Eat like a Japanese
In Japan, they have a restaurant type called Izakaya. What you get is a menu that can include most of the Japanese kitchen. The experience can vary, but is usually loud, big menu, all-you-can-drink options and people shouting hey to everyone steps in.
Great places: Zauo, Ninja akasaka and Gonpachi
Zauo — you can catch fish and then eat however you want it, such as sashimi, sushi, or fry.
Ninja Akasaka — you can meet real ninja!?
Gonpachi — where “KIll Bill” movie was shot, great atmosphere
Japanese affordable food chains that you can always rely on finding
- Yoshinoya and Matsuya — where you can find “Gyudon” Swedish Yakiniku for €3 or so, but Japanese business man loves it.
- Hama-sushi, Sushiro, Kurasushi — chain conveyer sushi place €1 for any plates
- Tenya- you can eat Tenpura
- Hidakaya — Ramen, Gyoza, and other
- Cocos —Japanese curry is a must try and this restaurants offers many different types of curry
- Syabu-yo — want to try Shyabu-Shyabu? It’s good quality all-you-can-eat
- Ikinari steak — steak is sold by the grams; cut to order, and you can choose how much ever you want.
Fast & cheap
Sometimes you just need to eat and the best way to get that done is:
- All the food chains mentioned above is typically really fast & cheap
- A convenience store as 7/11. The food is better than you think
- Ramen place can be as low as 5 USD dollars
- Bakery that have good breads and sandwiches
Tired of Japanese food?
Don’t sweet it! Tokyo have all fast food chains.
For your shopping addiction
- Around Asakusa temple = looking for authentic Japanese things or souvenir? There are many shops around here and even Japanese sometimes go there to find Japanesy thingy
- Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ginza = huge shopping area, really huge and many people, but you can find everything
- Roppongi = better for window shopping in the Main Street but some other cool places and cafes so it’s super fun walking around
- Uniqlo = it’s everywhere and offers affordable high quality clothes
- 100 yen store = with 1 coin (around $1 or €1) you can find almost everything there in good quality! If you forgot something or looking for affordable souvenir, it’s a great place to go to.
